Puglia travel & food magazine
Puglia: sea, food and traditions
The night of the dead in Puglia: a table laid for the souls, and a bowl of boiled wheat
Between 1 and 2 November, in many Apulian towns, the table was left laid for the souls, boiled wheat was made and children found their stockings full. The story, town by town.
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From September, Puglia is for walking: 878 km, and which routes are open
In Puglia the walking season starts when the beach season ends. 878 km of Via Francigena measured with elevation gain, and which routes are really open.
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The Gargano in autumn: the Foresta Umbra and the villages out of season
In October the Gargano changes: the Foresta Umbra, trails under the beeches, Monte Sant’Angelo and its two UNESCO sites, the coastal villages without the crowds.
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5 specialities of the Monti Dauni to try
The Monti Dauni, the quiet hills of northern Puglia: the villages worth a visit and five foods to try, from strascinati pasta and ricotta forte to Nero di Troia wine.
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The dry stone walls of Puglia, part of UNESCO’s heritage
The dry stone walls of Puglia, built without mortar, are the signature of its countryside and a UNESCO-listed art. What they were for, how to read them, who built them.
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- Gifts from Puglia: ideas for someone who loves Puglia
- Mustaccioli leccesi, the Christmas biscuits of the Salento
- Durum wheat or soft wheat: what is the difference?
- Ennius, the father of Latin literature, was born in the Salento at Rudiae
- Vino novello is out today: what Italy’s new wine is, why 30 October, and Puglia’s novelli
Ceramic balloons from Puglia: what they mean
Lightness, joy and freedom: what a ceramic balloon from Puglia means, why it is given at christenings and first communions, and how to use it.
November 2026 in Puglia: St Martin’s Day, new wine and the first food festivals, with confirmed dates
Vino novello from 30 October, St Martin’s Day on Wednesday 11 and the cardoncello festivals in Spinazzola, Ruvo, Gravina and Cassano: the November 2026 calendar, confirmed dates only.
Cardoncelli mushrooms: the season, where they grow and why you cannot just pick them
The cardoncello is the mushroom of Puglia’s Murgia plateau, growing in pastures in autumn and spring. Picking it takes a permit, and every mushroom should be checked for free by the health authority. The season, the rules and the autumn festivals.
The Apulian vummile: tradition, terracotta and craftsmanship
The vummile is the two-handled terracotta jug of the Apulian countryside, once used for water, wine and oil. What it is, where it is made and its new life in design.
The ghost of the castle of Monte Sant’Angelo: Bianca Lancia and Frederick II
Legend says Bianca Lancia, Frederick II’s last wife, still haunts the castle of Monte Sant’Angelo on the Gargano. The story, the emperor, and Gioia del Colle’s twin tale.
Grandma’s cracked olives: October, one sharp tap and fresh water every day
In October the biggest olives never went to the mill: they were split with one sharp tap, soaked for a week in water changed every day, then dressed with garlic, wild fennel and chilli. How cracked olives were made at home in Puglia.
Primitivo wine: its characteristics
Primitivo, the great red of Puglia known in the US as Zinfandel: ripe black fruit and spice, a full body, soft roundness and the food it pairs with best.
Lampascioni salad: an Apulian recipe
A simple Apulian lampascioni salad: the wild bulbs soaked overnight, boiled and dressed with fiaschetto tomatoes, mint, garlic, capers, olive oil and vinegar.
Muscisca, the dried meat of the Gargano shepherds
Muscisca, strips of salted dried meat from the Gargano and the Monti Dauni: the food shepherds carried with their flocks, where its name comes from and how it was prepared.